Brush on Builder Gel Infill – Step by Step

I am going to take you through the steps to infill your brush on builder gel nails, I always recommend to infill after 2-3 weeks of wear, this will help keep the correct structure to your nail and remove any lifting / damages.

Step 1 Sanitise clients hands ensuring there is no dirt on / underneath the nail

Step 2 Using a nail clipper, remove any length your client wants off the nail

Step 3 Do your cuticle prep work

Step 4 Using an 80 grit (blue centred) to remove any colour & some of the builder gel on the nail, this file is amazing for time efficiency. Then go in with your 100/180 grit (green centred) file to remove any lasting bits of gel, this file is softer than the 80 grit so you can take it a little closer around the edges of the nail. You should be able to see if there is any lifting to the gel, if you can see little cloudy patches that usually will be lifting, you can nip this out with cuticle nippers or you can angle your file around the lift to remove it when filing. Get yourself the 100 grit (red centre) file, this is perfect for shaping the nail and blending the gel into the grown of the nail.

Step 5 Brush away any dust that it left on the nail using a nail brush or a dusting brush, make sure your surface around you in free of any dust that has fallen whilst filling of the gel. This will make sure that you have a clean and dust free finish to your infill!

Step 6 Dehydrate the nail with step 1 (dehydrator) allow to air dry

Step 7 Brush Step 2 (fuse) on to the natural nail and around the edges of the nail, if your client is prone to lifting or doesn’t retain the gel well I always place fuse all over the nail just to be on the safe side, allow the fuse to air dry

Step 8 Brush on a thin layer of your choice of builder gel & cure for 30 seconds

Step 9 Apply a bead of builder gel onto the nail & work it around the nail as you would when you are applying onto fresh nails, pay extra attention to the apex to ensure it is in the correct place as it would have moved as the natural nail has grown. Once you are happy with the nail I always get a nail art brush (7mm brush) and I go around the sides of the nail and up into the cuticle area to ensure that I have covered the whole nail. When you are 100% satisfied I go ahead and cure the nail

Step 10 Remove the tacky layer off the nail, file / buff to refine the nail & sharpen up the shape

Step 11 Apply colour / design & cure

Step 12 Top coat & cure

Step 13 Apply cuticle oil, hand cream & give your client the relevant after care advice to ensure that they are getting the best out of their nails.

Rhi x